![]() ![]() ![]() The fittings are not in line with the valve so I measured the angles to make hooking up the fuel lines easier once the fittings are installed on the new valve. ![]() Once all the fuel lines are disconnected I removed the two screws and nuts holding the valve to the bracket welded to the fuselage and removed the valve. I do back up the fitting with an 11/16" angle wrench close to the base of the fitting because I have had the brass Weatherhead fittings collapse on themselves, they are pretty soft and weak at the openings. I prefer to use 5/8" flare wrench on the Weatherhead tubing nuts but probably not necessary since they are steel. Removed the carb/cabin heat control, trim handle and fuel valve handle along with the covers and then the whole side panel. My mag switches are still on the side panel and kind of a pain but I removed the switches from the panel leaving the wiring intact. I pulled the front stick and both front and rear seats to make it easier to get the center interior panel out. My Super Cub is a 1972 model, almost 13,000 hours, one recover in 1992 and pretty original, still has all the brass Weatherhead fittings on the fuel system. I had already put it in the work hanger and drained both tanks with the tail up. I bought a Dakota Cub left, right, both valve over a year ago but hadn't taken the time to put it in so yesterday I decided I was gonna work on my own plane and install the valve. I have gotten pretty quick at switching fuel tanks. Then I head out to my play ground, switch to the lowest tank with the intention of switching to the fullest when I get there and I have a brain fart and forget. I usually have little fuel and keep it in one tank but occasionally I go cross country and put fuel in both tanks. So my weekly mission is a 10 minute flight to the local gravel bars and then another hour or so hopping from bar to bar. ![]()
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